The The Epicentre Blog
-
Yesterday several members of staff from the Epicentre made the most of what could be the last of the summer weather. Woody and Steve headed out after work to Castle rock, North crag. Liam had the day off and went up to Dow crag for the first time to take Malcolm up the mega classic Eliminate A.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Mountain Hardwear athelete Tim Emmett and Dave Macleod will be on TV on Saturday night . They will be attempting a new line on Sron Ulladale. It looks like one not to miss. Here's a trailer.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
With snow forecast on the higher ground in Scotland for the next few days, thoughts have turned towards the winter season. Steve and Liam headed out after work, to a secret Lakes venue to try and dust of the cobwebs and start building some fitness for those early trips up north.
Although maybe not as famous as Newtyle quarry just north of Perth, there are some fantastic venues in the Lakes for dry-tooling, ranging from steep pocketed slate walls, to more realistic "pick cracks". All that is required is a bit of secret knowledge and a readiness to face the burn.
Afterwards we had a quick scramble from the roadside just to stretch the legs, It turned out to be a fantastic evening , with clear skies and a full moon.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Whilst it is still the summer holidays, thoughts have already turned to how cold things are getting up north. I've dusted off my winter links and started to have a sneaky look at what's going on every now and again. The first light dustings of snow have been reported on the top of the Ben this week and a mass of cold air that has been sitting over Northern Russia looks set to nudge a bit further south over the weekend to bring the freezing level lower and put down more snow. With a annual average lapse rate of 12 degrees it doesn't have to get too cold for it to be freezing on top of the Ben.
It's not going to bring climbing conditions just yet but it's a good start.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
At the Epicentre we have a collection box for the Lake District Mountain Rescue Search Dogs. A big thank you to everyone who has put their spare change in. We have just been able to give £92.00 to the team, keep up the good work
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
It's an exciting time for the Epicentre, the sun is finally shining in the Lakes again so we can all get back out on the crags, we have a growing team of bloggers to keep you all informed about what is going on in the climbing world. We'll have profiles for our GB climbing team bloggers coming soon, in the mean time here's an update from Natalie Berry.
Hi everyone! The last few weeks have been very busy for Team GB - with the British Youth Open event providing a base for selection for the World Youth Championships in Ratho in 5 weeks time, everyone had been pushing hard to attain maximum strength and fitness before the event. To add to the pressure, the French Junior Team were also taking part in the event and training alongside our team for the three days following the competition. Everyone was psyched to climb well, and after a motivating talk from Team Manager Ian Dunn we all knew that we had to do our best to be selected.
On the evening before the competition we were given our fantastic new team kit provided by Mountain Hardwear and the Epicentre. We all loved our clothes and everyone agreed that it gave us a more professional look. Feeling more like a team than ever we were ready to take on the French and compete for a place in the most prestigious event in the junior competition calendar - this year with the added bonus of it being held on home ground!
With two qualifiers and a final to complete in one day and over 100 competitors, it was guaranteed to be a busy day. There were many very talented youngsters in all categories who are not members of Team GB, yet were putting in some excellent performances and giving us a run for our money! Performances of the day were claimed by many to come from the youngest climbers (Youth C). Despite the high difficulty of the climbs, these kids never gave up and displayed true fighting spirit and professionalism. Almost all of Team GB made the finals and we put on a good show against the French.
The next day we had our first training day with the French Team. We were paired up with a French climber which was great for providing us with the opportunity to practice our French and make new friends! After trying two hard routes selected for us by the team management, we then tried a route that we had failed on during the competition. It was very enjoyable working with the French and truly inspiring watching how professional and hard working they were throughout the training camp.
On the Monday we climbed with a fellow British Team member and continued trying the harder routes (up to and including 8c!) In the afternoon, we took part in a mock competition amongst Team GB, in which we were marked on our conduct and professionalism in isolation and observation, and also on our determination on the route. This was excellent practice for upcoming competitions and helped iron out any creases in our competition routine.
On the final day with the French we worked on completing our project climbs and played a rather exciting "warm down" game presented to us by Francois Legrand, which involved climbing three easy boulder problems three times in groups with a speedy run around the boulders between each attempt. This was then repeated a further two times on a different selection of problems. After getting very rosy-cheeked and puffed-out it was time for the farewell party and buffet that had been organised for both teams. Everyone had great fun eating, relaxing and socialising after five days of training and competing.
In all, everyone really learned a lot from the competition and training days with the French - bring on the WYC on 9th- 12th September!"
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
The IFSC calendar for August was in Wien Austria this last weekend, and the GB Junior team had some great results in this European Youth Series event.
Luke Tilley finished a fantastic 6th in the male youth A category, with Ed Hamer finishing a great 10th position in the male juniors category.
Kitty Wallace finished 12th in her female youth A category, which is a another fantastic result considering she has been out of action due to injury for many weeks. Natalie Berry finished a creditable 13th in her female junior category.
All of the team’s results were excellent and again showing great promise for future, the European series have some very strong competitors in all the age categories and it is good to see that the GB team are mixing it with the Elite. Hopefully podium positions are not too far off!
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
It might only be August but at the end of the month our Autumn Winter stock will arrive, over the next few weeks we are going to give you a sneak preview of some of the new gear that we are looking forward to having in store.
Our first new item to look at is the Patagonia Nano storm.
The eagerly awaited nano puff pull on, arrived with us this spring it has proved to be very popular. Simple design and styling has made this a popular choice for dog walking through to Alpine adventures. The nano puff range for this winter has expanded to include the Nano Storm and the Nano Hoody. Both jackets will make great light weight belay jackets, the big question will be whether the waterproof shell on the storm is worth the extra 318g. At 334g the Nano Hoody looks like being the alpine belay jacket of choice. At 652g the nano storm is a fair bit heavier but it can replaice a storm shell and belay jacket if you are using a soft shell system. For use in Scotland the extra security and performance given by having a belay jacket with a shell on it might just give the Nano Storm the edge.
Either jacket will be a great light weight warm layer to have in your pack. All we need now is for the temperature to start dropping. Sharpen those tools.
- 2.5-layer nylon ripstop fabric with a waterproof/breathable H2No® barrier and Deluge® DWR (durable water repellent) finish
- Lightweight 60-g PrimaLoft® One polyester insulation provides excellent warmth and compressibility
- Unique quilt pattern holds insulation in place promoting durability and longevity
- Helmet-compatible, fully-adjustable hood with laminated visor for great visibility in bad conditions
- Watertight, coated center-front zippers treated with a Deluge® DWR finish
- Pockets: two handwarmers, one left chest; one internal zippered pocket, one drop-in
- Shell: 2.5-layer, 2.6-oz 50-denier 100% nylon ripstop with a waterproof/breathable H2No® barrier. Insulation: 60-g PrimaLoft® One polyester. Lining: 1.4-oz 22-denier 100% recycled polyester. Shell and lining have a Deluge® DWR (durable water repellent) finish
- 652 g (1 lb 7 oz)
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
In a search to find a family holiday with a bit of cragging on the side, Neil Toothill, a friend of the Epicentre headed to Menorca to see what it had to offer. Here's what he found:
Menorca, a quiet and beautiful island in the sun and this years choice for my family holiday. Content as many are to relax on the beach, by the bar or in the pool, those who understand climbing will appreciate the need to discover a little bit of it at any location we may be in.
I had searched online before departing and found a tiny bit of information via the excellent forums on ukclimbing.com but I was left feeling that Menorca offered little to the climber, certainly in comparison to it bigger island partner, Mallorca. I was pleasantly surprised.
A beautiful and off the beaten track area on the south coast - Calascoves – is a pirate-esque cove dotted with bronze age caves and offers a handful of well equipped bolted routes from F5+ through F6c+ and around 10-12m in height. These routes are on various facets and shade can be found at most times of day. There are also some more significant challenges to be had - although there was little evidence of traffic on the more intimidating faces. Further out across the cove is a beautiful limestone wall with endless mid grade deep water solo routes to be had.
On Menorca’s northern peninsula, some drive from any of the main resorts and certainly a day out rather than a few hours, is the Cavalleria region which has several distinct areas offering many routes from F5+ to F7b with longer routes than at Calascoves and more exposed terrain. Access is far from obvious and in some cases requires abseil approach to leave you in some beautiful locations with good climbing on, for the most part, excellent rock.
I stayed in a villa in the popular Binibeca area and can also report that the rock headland stretching out from the small beach at Binibeca Nou offers a number of great fun deep water solo opportunities only 10 minutes walk from the beach. The rock at sea level and on the walking terrain is seriously rough, but after a few metres it smoothes out and gives routes that begin easy and finish with the crux always close to the last move - superb fun and a light introduction to climbing above deep water. There is also a spectacular cave with a yawning opening at the upper rear. The right side of the cave entrance (as viewed from the sea) offers a beautiful DWS route in a stunning location and there would undoubtedly be more DWS within the cave and its roof for the more committed climbing team.
There are a handful of other locations that I am yet to explore, such as Es Sotil and Son Bou on the East and South coasts. It may not be the climbing Mecca that Mallorca is but if your family can spare you for a few hours it is certainly worth taking your rock shoes and chalk, if not a small sport rack. Oh yes - be prepared to suffer a backwards creep of a few grades until you become accustomed to the heat!
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Tomorrow is the historic Ambleside sports, Epicentre athelete Stuart Wood (AkA Woody) is heading down to show us all how it's done. We think he'll do well in the cumberland wrestling. Good luck to everyone taking part.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Whilst Adam and John were out cutting their teeth on the crags, the Epicentre team of Rick and Lou forfeited a days cragging on the grit to carry out some research into retail practices and merchandising from the big boys at Meadowhall. A great effort and above and beyond the call of duty, we'd much rather spend a day off on the crags. Well done guys.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Woody took Adam and John out last night for there first go at Rock Climbing in Tilberthwaite Quarry near Coniston! Adam enthused at the end of the evening 'I can see why this sport is so adictive!' John, who has a fear of heights did a cracking job topping out on the two routes we did.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
The BMC held an Open Youth Competition at Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho, this weekend
Young people from all over Britain took part in the event.
It was a great day with young people climbing fantastically and producing amazing performances. Team GB were sporting their new Epicentre/Mountain Hardwear kit.
The Junior French Climbing team also took part in the event as part of their team training and also facilitating cordial links between Team GB and the French team.
Natalie Berry and Jonathan Stocking really excelled and both won their categories against extremely strong French opposition.
For full results check out the BMC website
The BMC held an Open Youth Competition at Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho, on Saturday 24th July.Young people from all over Britain took part in the event.
It was a great day with young people climbing fantastically and producing amazing performances.
The photo to the right shows the Junior British team who were also competing.
The Junior French Climbing team also took part in the event as part of their team training and also facilitating cordial links between Team GB and the French team.
Natalie Berry and Jonathan Stocking really excelled and both won their categories against extremely strong French opposition.
The BMC held an Open Youth Competition at Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho, this weekend.Young people from all over Britain took part in the event.
It was a great day with young people climbing fantastically and producing amazing performances. Team GB were sporting their new Epicentre / Mountain Hardwear Kit.
The Junior French Climbing team also took part in the event as part of their team training and also facilitating cordial links between Team GB and the French team.
Natalie Berry and Jonathan Stocking really excelled and both won their categories against extremely strong French opposition.
The BMC held an Open Youth Competition at Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho, this weekend.Young people from all over Britain took part in the event.
It was a great day with young people climbing fantastically and producing amazing performances. Team GB were sporting their new Epicentre/Mountain Hardwear Kit.
The Junior French Climbing team also took part in the event as part of their team training and also facilitating cordial links between Team GB and the French team.
Natalie Berry and Jonathan Stocking really excelled and both won their categories against extremely strong French opposition.
The BMC held an Open Youth Competition at Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho, on Saturday 24th July.Young people from all over Britain took part in the event.
It was a great day with young people climbing fantastically and producing amazing performances.
The photo to the right shows the Junior British team who were also competing.
The Junior French Climbing team also took part in the event as part of their team training and also facilitating cordial links between Team GB and the French team.
Natalie Berry and Jonathan Stocking really excelled and both won their categories against extremely strong French opposition.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Bolting has always been a subject that creates strong debates. In Cumbria we have some great sport climbing venues and it is a positive step that a group has been set up to maintain and further develop places such as Chapel Head and Hodge Close.
We are in full agreement with the ideals of the Bolt fund and agree with what they say below.
CRAGS ON WHICH BOLTS ARE ALLOWED
There have been BMC meetings in the past at which bolting has been discussed. This has always been and still remains a controversial. The spread of bolting throughout the world has been infectious and many now escape to hot rock and bolts during the winter; clip bolts during the summer and train bolts in climbing walls. Trad climbing is still alive and kicking in many places and especially in Britain where this lives side by side with bolts. In the past bolts and climbing walls were unheard of and trad climbing was the only route. Now most people start climbing at climbing walls and get used to bolted routes – trad routes are a different game !! Trad climbing is a precious activity and must be preserved. It is important to control the use of bolts on the crags.
It has been agreed that bolts be allowed in Cumbria on the following crags –
•LimestoneChapel Head; Scout Scar; Humphrey Head; Millbeck etc
•Sandstone St Bees
•QuarriedHodge Close; Cathedral etc (Slate); Bram Crag (Micro Granite); Dalt Quarry (Borrowdale)
In order to bolt a crag the following should be agreed
•Permission of landowner
•Permission of first ascentionist of a trad route to be retrobolted• Permission of BMC meeting for bolting of any additional crags
Additional bolting at established bolted crags.
The Bolt funds own website however seems to condone the placing of bolts in the mountain environment where trad climbing reigns. How do we decide that it is OK to put lower off chains somewhere like Seargant crag slabs. If the land owner doesn't want the walking descent to be used because it is of environmental importance perhaps as climbers we should choose to either not climb there or look for an alternative. We could build are own anchors to lower off on all day and then scramble up the hill behind to the ridge at the end of the day. People who are in the know and are up to date on the History of a particular crag might be aware of all the issues and debates that have taken place. Someone new to the area who comes along straight from the climbing wall will see the bolts and could take it as a green light to start slapping bolts in where they see fit. Who's for a lower off bolt on Napes Needle?
It is irresponsible of the bolt fund to place photos of bolting in the mountain environment without photo information/credits. How am I to know that this is at Seargent crag slabs where there is a long history of in situ anchors and heated debate.
Woody & Steve
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
The Mountain Hardwear Optimo jacket, is a new for 2010, lightweight alpine shell.
It has been designed not only to be a lightweight jacket, but also burly, durable and super breathable.
I have been testing one of these jackets for several months now, and feel its performance has been more than satisfying. The use of micro-taped seems, coupled with its close alpine fit, contribute massively towards the breath ability of the jacket.
I’ve been using the jacket predominantly, in your stereotypical British summer conditions; Warm, wet and incredibly humid. Its close alpine fit and articulated sleeves make the movement of this jacket more comparable to that of a soft-shell. However, the welded tight chest and side pockets, and micro-taped seems mean it will keep the most adverse conditions imaginable, on the outside.
Another fantastic feature is its chest high pockets and massive hood space. These both mean that performance isn’t sacrificed in the slightest, when the wearer has his/hers harness and “lid” on. There’s nothing worse than wearing a heavy shell, that doesn’t fit well and having to deal with excess fabric and material hanging over the top of your harness when you’re climbing. I can honestly say this isn’t an issue with the optimo.
If it’s a lightweight, but super durable and robust shell you need, weather it be for your alpine adventure, British summer or Scottish winter conditions, the optimo will stand up to anything you chuck its way. This jacket is all you will need.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
It’s that time of year again, the weather has been great in the Lakes, we’ve all been getting out on the hill, with the school holidays looming and the tour de France helicopter occasionally giving us a view of the aiguilles, thoughts turn to early morning sunrises, acres of granite and mountain huts full of snoring Germans, yes it’s time for a summer alpine mission.
In this article I’m going to pick out some of our favourite Alpine kit and tell you why we like it so much.
The first piece of kit is the rucksack. Our alpine sack of choice is the Mountain Hardwear Super Scrambler. Whilst the scrambler is the ultimate lightweight pack the Super Scrambler is more comfy for the hut walk whilst still being light when it comes to climbing, the back system and straps are light but substantial enough to keep the load stable on your back whilst climbing.
Our clothing system for summer alpinism is based around a light soft shell system which can be backed up with a super light shell if the meteo hints at an afternoon thunder storm.
Capilene 4 is super versatile and we would wear this as a base layer. On a nice day when the rock is warm you will climb in just the cap 4 and carry your outer layer. The Alpine wind shirt or Simple guide jacket are our preferred outer layer. You will not over heat with this combination, it moves well and will keep off any breeze. Later in the season or in cold weather the Mercurial Jacket is a good choice and will give you more margin of error if the weather turns against you.
For first thing in the morning / sitting around the hut or for a chilly bivy we would recommend taking the nano puff along. Wear it over your outer layer to give you a storm layer in an emergency. Simple guide pants make up the bottom half of the outfit. They are tough, not too warm, turn snow and a light shower and move well with you.
If there is a chance of a storm or afternoon shower substitute the nano puff for a lightweight shell, budget will govern what you choose, the Mountain Hardwear Cohesion jacket is a well cut lightweight shell that does the job. The Optimo and M10 jackets offer more substantial alternatives.
An ambition 7.9 or two depending on the route/ descent, an air cr harness, a tracer helmet, a Grivel airtech racing axe, a pair of Scarpa critallo’s, and some air tech crampons and you’re just about ready for some classic alpine action. The Black Diamond Ion will get you to the route in the dark, if it’s a technical approach something a bit more powerful like the cosmo would be better. To help with navigation between, bergshrund and gendarme a Suunto Core is a great addition, it will also allow you to keep track of the weather. Membership of the Austrian Alpine club will give you peace of mind and could get you out of a scrape.
The rack you choose to take, what and how much will depend on where you are planning to climb. Classic snow routes such as an ascent of Mont Blanc will require very little in the way of climbing gear. Our experienced staff at the Epicentre will guide you through what is the lightest most suitable gear for your planned routes. Pop in for a chat or give us a bell.
Have a great time in the hills.
Steve
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Mountain Hardwear and the Epicentre have teamed up with the BMC and are now the official clothing sponsors of the GB lead climbing team.
The team which comprises of both juniors and seniors and numbers around 40 athletes and 15 coaching staff, will be wearing Mountain Hardwear T Shirts, competition vests, fleeces and down jackets at all of their competitions and training events worldwide for the next 3 years. The recent good form of results from team members Shauna Coxsey sixth, Ed Hamer tenth and Randy Roby sixth at the European Youth Series events at Imst are good indicators that the team are on the right track.
Nick Colton, BMC Deputy CEO said: “We’re delighted to have Mountain Hardwear and the Epicentre as the new clothing sponsor of the juniors within the GB Climbing Team. As the team moves into a new era, continuing to go from strength to strength, it’s important that the team’s kit reflects their commitment, professionalism and performance.”
Mountain Hardwear who sponsor eighth time Everest conqueror Kenton Cool and English climbing wads Neil Gresham and Tim Emmett are delighted to announce their sponsorship of the GB climbing team. Mountain Hardwear was founded by genuine enthusiasts and has constantly been inspired by and involved with adventures all over the world. Toby Davies Mountain Hardwear Brand Manager said, “We are very excited to be able to support the next generation of climbers and adventurers at a grass roots level”.
Ian Dunn, GB Team Manager said “The sponsorship with Mountain Hardwear and the Epicentre is another example of the strong foundation building process that the GB Team are trying to develop by being linked with reputable companies, that helps to build a professional attitude within the team”
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
As an Epicentre favourite it is never too long between trips round the Fairfield horseshoe. Liam and John had a leisurely day in the fells yesterday.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Langdale offers some great little circuits if you are looking for Alpine training trips or just a spot of good fun in the Lakes. A circuit of Upper Scout, White Ghyll, Pavey, Gimmer, Raven and East Raven gives a great outing, varying the grade can turn the trip from an evening out to a full blown mission.
With an evening out on the cards and the cloud sitting over the fells we opted for a round of classics on Wednesday after work. A late start didn't help and general damp gloomy conditions did slow us down a bit. 3 and a bit hours for the circuit wasn't too bad.
Here's a short film clip of the trip.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Good luck to everyone who is planning to attempt the Bob Graham Round at the weekend. Epicentre staff will be out performing pacing duties through the night.
Find out more about the Bob Graham round here. http://www.bobgrahamclub.org.uk/
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Steve is back from a two week family holiday to the North West of Scotland. After taking in some great beaches around Gairloch, running in the Letterewe forest, canoe tripping round the summer isles, floating around fishing for mackerel (and not catching any) waiting for good weather to have a crack at a run along the Skye ridge, hanging out with seals off the coast of Arisaig in the seas kayak and doing a 25 min ascent of Tower Ridge to round the trip off he is back in the Lakes and waiting for the next adventure.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
After concentrating on ultra distance races for a few years, Steve took the opportunity of a glut of fell races through the Bank Holiday weekend to make a return to short fast races. He is hoping that race fitness will help in a planned attempt at a fast run along the Cullin Ridge this summer.
The mist in Langdale on Saturday helped with confidence as local knowledge meant that Steve took a better line in descent than most of the runners to finish 5th in the Harrison Stickle race, almost exactly 100 miles shorter than his previous race.
A great day for racing on Sunday with a nice cool breeze on the tops and perfect visibility didn't do anything to make the brutal ascent of calf howe pike on the Dodds any easier in the Helvellyn fell race.
Tuesday evening and a run round Two Riggs at St Johns in the Vale completed the Trio.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Woody and Alec took Young Woody, Paddy, out to raven crag Walthwaite after he asked if he could have a go at seconding a severe. We took him up the lovely Route 1. Paddy said after his ascent that he thought the holds were a bit far apart but he was still looking to acheive his goal of seconding a VS before his 3rd birthday.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Working on a tip off from the FRCC and other rumors Steve and Rick accompanied by Langdale resident John Kelly from the Dungeon Ghyll campsite, headed up to Raven Crag to remove a reported loose block from Centipede.
Steve with his taste for climbing wet rock was exited and slightly more enthusiastic when it started to rain on the first pitch. A very small amount of loose rock was removed from the last pitch but no big blocks as expected. There is some loose rock well off the climbing line above the finish of the route care should be taken around this but it is not thought to threaten the climb.
After a hard winter there is always loose rock about on the crags, especially mountain crags, take care.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Woody and Steve took advantage of the sun over the last few days to head into the hills with the Kids. Paddy showed that he has inherited his fathers natural talent for the Rock at a great venue for taking kids climbing over at Thirlmere, and Rowan took on a more mountaineering challenge scrambling at Yewdale.
At the Epicentre we stock a range of kids clothing and have an expanding range of childrens gear. If you need advice on places to go and activities that will go down well with the kids get in touch. We are out there doing it.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Test Boots, technical clothing and gear on our in store climbing wall. The team at King Kong climbing walls have done a great job at making our climbing room a bit special.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Tempted out by the sunshine John ventured onto the Fairfield horseshoe yesterday. This classic walk is an Epicentre favourite.
It has been a great sunny week, the snow that was forecast hasn't arrived but it has been a bit chilly on the tops.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
In preparation for the Fred Whitton in a few weeks time, Steve accompanied by the boys from Mountain Hardwear had a trip over Wrynose and Hardknott pass last night. The hills started to kick in when we turned round in Eskdale and had to come back. Instead of a leisurely ride back down Langdale at the end. a healthy air of competition came to the fore and it turned into an all out sprint for home.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Perhaps a strange question to ask as the winter gives way to spring and you start pulling out the summer cragging gear, but there is method to our madness. First have you seen the weather forecast. It’s going to snow possibly to valley level in the lakes next week. Secondly it is the end of the winter season and we have some great deals on insulation so now is a great time to learn from your experiences this winter and get ready for next season.
Down feels nice and packs down small it is instantly warm and you might as well have carried the log burner from your living room along for the belay. Downs’ performance to weight ratio will always be hard to beat and gives textile engineers the bench mark to aim for when making a synthetic alternative. Down is great if you are going to be climbing in a cold dry climate or are not going to be on a route for a long period of time i.e. lots of days. In a cold dry climate such as Norway, the Alps and North America, for day routes or routes with just one bivi you can and will keep the down dry and for the weight you will have the warmest jacket possible. A shelled down jacket such as our Below Zero SL Hooded Jacket will give you some piece of mind and help ward off the risk of snow melting on you or a freak rain shower catching you.
If you know you are going to get wet, then down isn’t for you, the Scottish belay jacket has to be a synthetic piece. Teaming a thick synthetic belay jacket with a light weight down sleeping bag can give a good combination for a multi day Alpine route. The synthetic belay jacket giving you the safety net for the down bag getting wet. Shelled synthetic belay jackets are available but only really come into there own if you are wearing a soft shell system, the shelled belay jacket giving you a storm layer for when things go pear shaped and the weather gets too much for the soft shell. Look out for a shelled hooded Patagonia Nano puff due for next winter, this will fit into this role perfectly for Scotland, whilst the Mountain Hardwear Alcove jacket we currently have on deal would make a nice warm belay/bivi jacket.
How warm/heavy a jacket to go for is a matter of personal preference and will also depend on the nature and style of the climbing you intend to do. Ultimately a thick Synthetic Jacket and a thin Down Jacket make up a great insulation wardrobe. On a nice day in Scotland or a day route in the Alps in winter or for a chilly summer alpine bivi take the thin down jacket. For a mixed route on a wild day on the Ben or for an Alpine suffer fest take the thick synthetic jacket.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
It's been a great few days in the Lakes and the Epicentre staff have been making the most of the sunshine. Rick was camping and climbing in Langdale for a few days, Liam sampled the slate at Tilberthwaite and Steve headed off to Stonethwaite for a few days camping, climbing and running with the family.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Any last hopes of another winter route in the Lakes might be disappearing with forecast temperatures of 18 degrees at valley level for tomorrow. It looks like a good weekend for either wandering amongst the daffodils and following in Wordsworths' footsteps or taking to the rock for a T-shirt mountain crag day.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Later in the week temperatures are set to rise again and the sun should come out, the hoped for evening cragging weather should return.
Over the weekend new staff member Liam led the evening cragging campaign making the most of Saturday evenings weak sunshine at Raven Crag Langdale.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
We wish Kenton Cool good luck as he heads out to Nepal to attempt his 8th ascent of Everest.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
A new via ferrata is plannned for the Lake District to open up the historic Napes climbing areas of Great Gable to a wider group of walkers, scramblers and climbers so all can appreciate the skill and enterprise of Haskett- Smith and friends. The route, equipped with steps and steel hawser will run from the popular climbers traverse, on Gable, up Napes Needle then link to Needle Ridge by a suspension bridge. More steps and hawser will lead to the top of the ridge from where the summit of Great Gable is easily accessible.
The project has the backing of several large national organisations, a spokesman today said, “ On the back of the successful development at Honister it was a natural progression for further Via Ferrata developments on the Lakeland fells, we are very excited to be involved with this project.”
At the Epicentre we enjoy Via Ferrata when they are in the right place, we don’t think they have a place on the Lakeland fells and would urge you to join the campaign against this and future developments in the Lakeland fells.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
A change to summer time, had us dreaming of evenings on rock that had been gently warming in the spring sunshine all day, followed by a leisurely drink whilst sitting around outside the ODG.
The reality this week is slightly less romantic. New very wet snow is lying on the fell from 500m upwards, with 5-10cm on the top of Helvellyn. Just back from an after work run. The new snow is sitting on very wet ground which is making conditions under foot very slippery. It is snowing on quite a cold strong wind on the tops and raining heavily once you drop out of the freezing level. I was glad to have a nice warm jacket to get back to at the car. (Steve)
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Don't be fooled by the warm weather we have been having for the last couple of weeks. The forcast for next week looks like winter will return to the fells. http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Scafell/6day/bot We'll have to wait and see if anything comes back into condition. It looks like there's a good chance. It's cooling down from Sunday onwards and the strong winds should bring buttress routes high up into condition quite quickly.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
We're all looking forward to the clocks changing at the weekend, next week we'll be able to go for a long run after work. and take to the crags. Today Rick and Steve settled for a quick trip up to High Sweden Bridge. This nice circuit is a favourite evening outing.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
The phone rings, do I want to go climbing next week? This isn’t too strange a request, it is the winter. My phone doesn’t ring all year and then when the first snow flake lands on a Lakeland summit it turns into a conditions hotline. People want to know where to go, whether I can climb with them, whether route X will be in condition. I always do my best to help out.
This request was only different because it was the BBC wanting me to take a presenter out to climb some ice. Anyone who knows the Lake District in winter will realise that 10 days notice before you go climbing, equates to a lifetime in terms of conditions.
It has been probably the best winter for 30 years in the lakes and this has been reflected in the routes that have been climbed, Dave Birkett grabbed the much eyed ice on Scafell East Buttress which hadn’t been there for at least 20 years, Aira Force was climbed, it was in condition for 2 days, the first time in 30 years, Moss Ghyll Grooves was repeated after a 25 year wait and Botterills Slab has become a trade route.
With this in mind and after a quick scan of a couple of trusted forecast sites I nervously agreed that I would probably be able to find something wintry. The truth was that the forecast was for a thaw to set in over the weekend prior to our climbing day. I was confident that a high north facing gully such as Custs Gully would retain sufficient snow to look convincing with a bit a camera wizardry.
A week followed with endless phone calls from various producers, safety people and even the presenter who was clearly keen to get across her lack of experience and seeking some reassurance that we weren’t heading for some Touching the Void experience.
The forecast kept fluctuating between looking pretty good and potentially disastrous. I had arranged to climb with Alistair Rickman, a keen climber and the man from the Beeb charged with managing the safety on the climb the day before. The forecast started to look better and I couldn’t really believe that the Lakes was actually going to deliver.
Alistair’s arrival coincided with me completely loosing my voice, I spent a bit of time trying to decide who was going to be my voice double. Unfortunately Tom Cruise and Brad Pit were busy so I had a quick trip across the road to boots. After explaining my predicament they went to work and came up with a green potion and some sweets that singers use.
I chose Great End as the best option for somewhere to climb and had a bit of a job persuading the producer that we would be able to get there do the climb and get off the fell in a day. They were looking for somewhere with roadside ice climbing and the thought of it taking 3 hrs to get to the route from Ambleside seemed a bit daunting.
My day with Alistair was unbelievable the Lakes had come good, the previous day had seen freezing levels rise well above the tops for the first time in months, I fielded a few nervous phone calls from friends who’d been out in mushy snow. The Mountain Rescue who were supposed to be meeting us to talk about rescuing people and avalanches pulled out because they couldn’t believe that anything would be climbable. I was confident that the forcast would deliver and it did. The super cold night created some of the best conditions I have ever seen at Great End. After recceing Central Gully I persuaded Alistair to carry on and do SE gully and Window Gully to give us the classic day out.
So the big day came. Katie the presenter was kitted out head to toe in flash new gear kindly provided by the Epicentre. A cold night gave way to deep blue sky. The conditions were straight from a dream.
Alarm bells should have started to ring when I had to pack and repack my rucksack 4 times in order to get the correct shot of the gear going in to my pack. The weather on the approach meant that we had to stop to shoot numerous “beautiful” things along the way, the producer was on a bit of a field trip. Eventually sometime well after scheduled we got to the route and finally things sped up a bit as we left the producer behind.
Keith Partridge took charge of proceedings, he has filmed nearly every climbing programme I have ever seen. It did take over 4 hours to do a route that I could do in 10 minutes, but it wasn’t cold and the ice made it possible for Katie,( who’s winter climbing experience, which involved watching a nineteen year old youth failing on the Covent Garden ice wall) to get up the grade III pitch. Waving a tool in the general direction of the ice produced stellar first time placements.
We walked off into the sunset, only worrying about the decent without enough head torches to go around.
Sunshine, perfect ice, not cold, screw belays, first time placements, blue sky, sunglasses, route to ourselves, time to chat on belays, Just like every other day winter climbing.
Do say “The North Face of Great End,” don’t say “I’m going to have to cut the rope.”
Thanks to Rick for carrying all the film gear up to the crag and standing around all day. Thanks to Grivel and Mountain Hardwear for supplying gear for the climb.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
For the first time since December the freezing level is set to stay above the summits, for a whole week. A warm and wet day is forecast for Thursday. This could spell an end to what has been one the best winter climbing seasons for years. Grab your last wintery days out on the fells before it's too late, Things are rapidly disappearing. Ice is just about hanging around high up at Great End and on Hellvelyn. It could be time to dust of the rock shoes.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
As the snow on the fells goes through yet another freeze thaw cycle in what must go down as one of the best winters we have had in the lakes for perhaps 20 years, it is once again important to head out on the fells with the right equipment to enjoy the full experience that our mountains can offer you.
Usually when weather reports and commentators say that you will need crampons and axes on the fell, you end up carrying them and not actually using them. It is fair to say that both last year and this year you have actually needed crampons when you have carried them. For a time in January crampons were an essential item in the about town handbag for Ambleside mums taking their toddlers to play group.
Spending most of my spare time actively seeking out snowy places whilst either climbing or fell running and having guided walking holidays in both the Alps and Nepal. I now find myself meeting keen hill walkers wanting to take their first steps on the snowy fells of the lakes on a daily basis. It has been a good season for crampon sales at our new store, The Epicentre in Ambleside. I felt it was time to lay to rest a number of myths surrounding a couple of essential items in your winter pack for days out on our fells.
I don’t really want to throw a spanner into the works but here goes. When Brian Hall devised his now generally accepted and widely used crampon to boot compatibility scale, of B’s and C’s, it was intended to be a rough guide to help people choose what spikes might fit which boots. Since this scale was devised there have been quite important changes to both boot and crampon technology that to be quite honest makes the need for a compatibility chart obsolete.
Don’t get me wrong if you don’t know about crampons, what they are going to be used for and how to fit them then Brian Halls chart will give you a system that will work, you just might end up having an expensive day.
A good store with experienced staff will have the confidence to treat each customer, their needs and their boots as an individual case.
I am concentrating here on the needs of a fell walker as they seem to be the most confused by what you can actually get away with. As a climber embarking on some vertical ice fest you will probably have some idea of what you need.
There are an increasing number of cheap alternatives to a classic walking crampon; you might know them as micro spikes, spiders, yaktrax etc. In the most part these are good to get you from the car to the house or into town to buy a proper pair of crampons to head out on the hill with. These “crampons” always sell out very quickly when things get slippery and do offer some reassurance on slippery pavements; I wouldn’t recommend them for the high fells.
Flexible bars and new style strap on systems allow a crampon to be put on almost any item of footwear, whilst most of the time they will be overkill for a trip to the shops or whilst taking your toddler to nursery, they are essential for a winters day on the high fells. A crampon such as the Grivel G10 New Classic is a staple for us at the Epicentre. It will happily fit on a pair of fells shoes (tested to grade IV 4 and 4000m on inov8’s), and is equally at home on High Altitude mountaineering boots climbing moderate mixed ground. So to answer your question yes a crampon will go on your boot.
Warnings do come with putting a crampon on a bendy boot or trainer; you will have less ankle support and an increased turning moment about the ground, a combination that will make it more likely for you to twist your ankle. Twist an ankle or take a 200m slide down an icy hillside dotted with rocks? The choice is yours. With a stiffer pair of boots you will feel more positive on your feet and over a long distance you will be more comfortable you may even be able to try a bit of easy climbing.
Antiball plates are pretty much standard now, these plastic inserts prevent snow building up in your boot tread which can have dangerous and painful side effects, don’t buy crampons without them.
Coverage of the sole unit by the crampon is important but fits do vary, a good shop will advise you on whether a particular crampon is a good fit on your boot.
Ice axes do offer a similar mine field to the fell walker, if anything they come a close second in importance to the crampon, An ice axe will hopefully stop a slide that you shouldn’t take if you are wearing crampons. Again technology has changed and you are faced with an endless choice of axes, bent ones, straight ones, long ones, short ones, leashes, leashless the options continue. Again a good shop with experienced and confident staff should be able to advise you.
The walking axe isn’t a walking stick it is there to arrest a fall, whilst carrying it in your uphill hand traversing a slope it may offer some extra stability. By choosing a tool that is too long the temptation will always be there to try and use it as a walking stick. It will not be long enough to use comfortably as a walking stick and will only put you into a stoop and off balance.
A short axe is lighter, performs better in an arrest, doesn’t get caught in trees when it’s on your back and is more competent for use in “piolet traction,” mode when you are heading up steeper ground. I am 6ft 3” and use a 48cm long walking axe.
A leash can be useful, but it can also get in the way. I would advise having a leash but not always using it.
With the correct crampons and a well chosen walking axe you will be ready to enjoy our fells in winter. Call by the Epicentre after your day out and let us know what you’ve been up to.
Written By Steve.
Join the discussion - add your comments
-
Welcome to our new site. We hope you enjoy browsing our products, reading our reviews and keeping up to date with The Epicentre team in Ambleside.
Join the discussion - add your comments
